Do the wheel offsets need to be changed, not PCD, is the hub centered on 25mm all ventilated? From 4×00 to 4×100 refer to the following product www.scarles.co.nz/shop-online/wheel-products/spacers/spacer-4×100 Honda 25mm Pair Hi Wayne- These are not the adapters that are certified. It is the complete vehicle WITH wheels and adapters that are certified. Your adapters may be in good condition on your car and out of service on another car. I`m sorry I don`t do LVV certifications now. In the morning, I installed a set of 4×4 torches and I want to take out the wheel appropriately. Hi Rutger. According to your description, these would be adapters, with a second set of bolts that hold the wheel on the adapter. Steel is a good material, strength is needed to stop the tensile bolts and resist cracks between the holes. I agree that some alloy adapters are too weak, but LVVTA standards still allow them. What you suggest sounds good, you still need an LVVTA certificate. Good luck John, I guess the spacers need to be centered on the hub and wheel and can only have as many holes as bolts on the wheel/hub i.e. no multi-fit adapters? Hi Julie- They sound good as long as the thickness is more than about 12mm.
I would do an endurance test to verify that the material is what you say and not a weak replacement, also perform a stress analysis that verifies that a- the bolts do not pull through and b- that the adapter does not shear between the holes. But don`t worry, they`re unlikely to fail unless you buy them from a shady Chinese website. The hub is good, the centered on the wheel is better, but the tapered nuts are considered sufficient to centralize the wheel. Hope this helps – John exactly! Because bolted spacers are not legal without a certificate and you will not receive a certificate without the faucet. Read the change thresholds, which are also available on the lvvta website. I would never trust the spacers to be perfectly concentric with the hub if I only relied on the bolts. There is too much movement. Hi Ben – if you increase the lag, the steering becomes heavier and the bounce increases. It also loads all suspension seals, making them wear out faster.
It gives springs and shock absorbers more leverage, making them softer. On most modern cars, tire and wheel flares can be added both inside and OUTSIDE so that the offset is not increased. The advice from a GOOD wheel and tire shop is worth it, they know what works for your car. I hope this helps, John 3.2(1) The repair of a tire, wheel, hub or axle or the repair of a vehicle affecting a tire, wheel, hub or axle must comply with Land Transport Rule: Vehicle Repair 1998. Eccentric screws/bushings for adjusting wheel alignment (e.g. for camber correction in conjunction with lowered suspension) I really like to look and think about getting different wheels so that they are identical without the spacers (slightly wider wheels and different offsets). Hi Hayley If you need a spacer, you need an LVV certificate. I don`t do certificates now, so I can`t quite find a price. I would expect at least $500 to $600 It might be better to go with different wheels and save money It will require a full certificate – we might be able to get the cheaper LVV plate from LVVTA, better call us Tell me about spacers to avoid problems Excellent site for real world information, if you are considering mods. I`m sorry to hear that you had to defend yourself while I`ve always found that certifiers have more experience in the actual strength of materials and correct application than LVV rules (which have many flaws big enough that downright stupid mods can be certified!). I don`t use spacers because I`m picky about my favorite bush radius and I put my cars around the corner so I don`t be “hella flush”, but you constantly answer questions clearly and politely.
Brian. Hi James, I`m restoring a 1974 MK1 Escort 1300GT. As you may know, the original wheels were 12″ x 5. I received a new set of 13″ x 5.5″ Rostyle wheels that I would like to use, but I needed 10mm spacers to remove away from the front struts. I am a retired fitter, turner and machinist and have my own lathe and milling machine, so I plan to make it from 10mm mild steel sheet. I understand what you`re saying at the beginning of your website, so my understanding is when I factory all the surfaces and drill the spacers on a tight central fit on the center pin of the wheel hub and mark the PCD for the wheel bolts while I`m still in the lath. I then drill the 4 bolt holes in the spacer in a separation head on my milling machine. Should they not then comply with the regulations? PS There are loads of spacers on TradeMe etc. that are made of very thin aluminum and very few contact surfaces. Are these not illegal for road traffic? If the spacers are specified by the manufacturer for your vehicle, they are spare parts Otherwise, it is a modification. I mounted my old Volvo 4×114.3 wheels with a TORQ 15mm 4×100-4×114.3 wheel adapter on my other Mitsubishi Colt 06. The rear wheels appear to have a small gap between the integrated wheel adapter and the rim.
I replaced the rims and adapters to check but it`s the same problem. Do you know what the problem might be here, why there is a small gap between the adapter and the rim on one side of the wheel? Well done John Hi Ben- There are no factory adapters or spacers for this model. You should consider the possibility of using wheels with the desired offset so that you do not need a certificate. Adapters are a critical safety element and there do not seem to be any manufacturer`s standards, it is very likely that there are dangerous elements. We perform a thorough inspection to determine the material and tension. I recommend you call us on 0800 569865 to discuss more information. Sincerely, John Thank you for your additions. We used to have monthly Auckland certifier meetings where we shared our knowledge and experience. I think we have all developed respect and appreciation for each other`s skills and knowledge. As a result, we referred clients to other certifiers who had expertise in the field.
I have always said publicly that the LVVTA was wrong when it claimed that all knowledge came from them and that the certifier`s judgments were in fact not legal and violated the certifiers` certificate of appointment. See LVVTA requirements – Spacers must be held at the hub when the wheel is removed. As a rule, a single milled screw is sufficient. Uh, actually. About ten years ago, a clumsy kid had a wheel parts business with his car and she hit and killed a child. He had spacers installed and used the wrong wheel nuts for his spare alloy wheels. I`ll see if I can find the article. In general, never succumb to the temptation to act in absolute values. This site explains quite well the results of the width and offset of the wheels, does not take the width of the tires in relation to.